Published: Mon Sep 11, 2023
A few weeks ago I was watching some clips from the big wave world. After watching those clips, I began thinking of the safety crews, that are out on the skis, patrolling the impact zone.
As amazing as the guys that make a 30 foot barrel look so good, I’m almost more amazed at the skill and commitment of the water safety guys. One of the best visuals of their importance, was out at Cortes Bank off the coast of San Diego. Greg Long, one of the world’s best in heavy water, had taken a fall and put through a brutal hold down. He lost consciousness under water and was at risk of drowning. However, he had a safety team. One of the Walsh brothers, abandoned his jet ski to grab onto Greg’s unconscious body. He held on through massive whitewater until they were picked up and taken to a boat where Greg was resuscitated.
I was thinking of how much commitment it takes, in a situation like that, for a friend to be willing to jump in, abandon their own safety and keeping both of their heads above water. I’ve personally never been close to a situation like that but it makes me think of God in every way. Our Father in Heaven saw how much mankind needed rescuing, he saw that without intervention we were doomed to death. So he had Jesus jump off his heavenly jet ski and into the chaos of the world. He suffered through the temptations of the enemy and the judgement of the world and worst of all, He took on the holy wrath of God that was meant for us, when He walked with His cross to the hill. The entire time never letting go of us.
“For while we were still weak, at the right time Christ died for the ungodly. For one will scarcely die for a righteous person—though perhaps for a good person one would dare even to die— but God shows his love for us in that while we were still sinners, Christ died for us.”
Image by: Jackie Fiero
Enter in your information below to “Stay In The Pocket” with Christian Surfers United States. You will receive our weekly devotionals and updates on upcoming events and trips.